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loopy · Status: Offline

been having some problems with the 89

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

Sounds fuel related, but hard to guess. I'd look at a FPR first. Do you have a gauge? Autometer has small ones that connect to the shraeder valve for cheap.

I'd also pull the Check Engine codes. Not all stored codes generate a CEL

sean86gt · Status: Offline

first replace your fuel filter just because its cheap and youll never have to worry about it again.

How loud is your fuel pump...if its loud its usually an indication that its on its way out

jgt8229 · Status: Offline

is it cranking at normal speed??does it have trouble starting after it gets hott? the tiiming can cause that to happen .

loopy · Status: Offline

it has a fpr and gauge, fuel pressures around 35. Whats weird is when i turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick on it doesnt always start i open the hood check the pressure and its around 20 and slowly climbing. When i went to the gas station to fill up, cars been off for 4 mins nice and warm doesnt start open the hood the pressure 35 a few tries later and she fires up. Its fuckn weird and slowly driving me nuts.

loopy · Status: Offline

jgt8229 wrote:

is it cranking at normal speed??does it have trouble starting after it gets hott? the tiiming can cause that to happen .

it does when it hot or cold at times. I just set the timing tried it at 12 and its at 14 seems the same

loopy · Status: Offline

sean86gt wrote:

first replace your fuel filter just because its cheap and youll never have to worry about it again.

How loud is your fuel pump...if its loud its usually an indication that its on its way out

Fuel pump is normal loud when the car is idling and i listen i can hear it from inside. when it like 30 deg outside it doesnt kick on i leave the key on and it kicks on sooner or later. I will get a fuel filter tomorrow its only 10 bucks. when i mash the pedal sometimes she launches and sometimes she hesitates

sean86gt · Status: Offline

if that fuel pump doesnt prime as soon as you turn the key then thats a problem....you shoulda bought my car! haha jk

loopy · Status: Offline

sean86gt wrote:

if that fuel pump doesnt prime as soon as you turn the key then thats a problem....you shoulda bought my car! haha jk

it primes all the time just when its cold it doesnt. But the real problem is the hesitation/ chugging whatever you call it, I can always wire the pump to a switch. Hopefully when I install the fuel filter that solves it.

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

It should climb to max pressure on the first prime.

I'd change the fuel filter first...cheap and easy to do.

Ed · Status: Offline

it needs a fuel pump

Ed · Status: Offline

do not buy one from autozone get a nice one or you will be doing it again

jgt8229 · Status: Offline

my car had the same problem it wasnt the fuel pump, i never really figured out wat is wat. it got a different engine and hasnt done it since lol

loopy · Status: Offline

Ed wrote:

it needs a fuel pump

This is where I get confused. I've done so much reading lately and i'm not made of money. could it be a pump, injectors, tps sensor not sure. but I will update when i replace the filter.

Mineral 02 · Status: Offline

You probably already did but , check the basics .... make sure you have no vaccum leaks . Listen for a whistling sound and spray brake clean around the throttle body and intake area aswell as all vaccum lines . If the idle changes while spraying then you found it .
Fuel filter ..as already recomended is a good idea .
Your temp sensor could be giving you problems .
Tap on the tps sensor when its running at idle with the end of a screw driver and see if it makes the idle change . Then use a multi meter to check it for correct voltage ( I beleive it's the green wire that you have to back probe ) Check it with key on engine off . Should be around .98 at idle and slowly open the throttle to make sure that it raises steadily in voltage with out jumping around to 4.5 volts at W.O.T.
You could also have a bad distributor module . If it's running worse when warm this could be the cause .
If you don't want to throw money at it then your gonna have to test all possible causes to make the right determination . Good Luck !!

loopy · Status: Offline

I changed the fuel filter today still havent drove it yet, but the lil bitch is still giving me shit about starting. I shut it down sometimes like 5-10 mins later it takes a few tries. Its weirdthe car sat all night, started her up aroun noon fired right up first try. I can hear a small miss or whatever in the exhaust its hard to describe. I did notice when i shut the car down, I look at the fuel pressure a min later its down to 19-20 is it normal to drop that fast?

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

mine does that too. Drops to zero after a short while. I have a Kirban AFPR

But i have zero starting or running issues.

Is your gauge under your hood or on your cowl??

Have a friend cycle the key while you look at the gauge. Just turning the key to on should prime the pump and pressure should instantly rise to 39 psi with the vacuum off (or engine not running)

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Tuesday 9th of March 2010 07:15:29 PM

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

mine does that too. Drops to zero after a short while. I have a Kirban AFPR

But i have zero starting or running issues.

Is your gauge under your hood or on your cowl??

Have a friend cycle the key while you look at the gauge. Just turning the key to on should prime the pump and pressure should instantly rise to 39 psi with the vacuum off (or engine not running)

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Tuesday 9th of March 2010 07:15:29 PM

gauge is under hood, when the car wont start i look under the hood and pressure is at 20 and slowly climbs but sometims pressure is at 35 engine warm and it doesnt start. I will go out in the early morn to see what it does

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

What brand is the AFPR and how old is it?

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

What brand is the AFPR and how old is it?

I am not sure but everything is pretty new I will some pics of the motor so you have an idea of what it is

loopy · Status: Offline

i found a name on it Paxton her are some pics

-- Edited by loopy on Wednesday 10th of March 2010 12:15:42 PM

loopy · Status: Offline

so i have been driving the car around today and its driving better a couple times it hesitated i was accelerating from a stop sign and then put put put and she died had to restart kinda weird. sometime im driving hit the gas to pass someone and it wants to throw me threw the windshield talk about whiplash haha. when she runs good balls to the wall the way it should be.

loopy · Status: Offline

i have been driving my car around it still like mises or something. could it be fuel injectors are junk? i put cleaner in the tank it improved a lil bit. still misses or something here and there

LxFiveO · Status: Offline

Just guessing , but could be leaking injectors....& you need more like 38-40lbs. of fuel pressure at idle...

loopy · Status: Offline

LxFiveO wrote:

Just guessing , but could be leaking injectors....& you need more like 38-40lbs. of fuel pressure at idle...

i set the fuel pressure at 40psi vac line off

loopy · Status: Offline

Mineral 02 wrote:

You probably already did but , check the basics .... make sure you have no vaccum leaks . Listen for a whistling sound and spray brake clean around the throttle body and intake area aswell as all vaccum lines . If the idle changes while spraying then you found it .
Fuel filter ..as already recomended is a good idea .
Your temp sensor could be giving you problems .
Tap on the tps sensor when its running at idle with the end of a screw driver and see if it makes the idle change . Then use a multi meter to check it for correct voltage ( I beleive it's the green wire that you have to back probe ) Check it with key on engine off . Should be around .98 at idle and slowly open the throttle to make sure that it raises steadily in voltage with out jumping around to 4.5 volts at W.O.T.
You could also have a bad distributor module . If it's running worse when warm this could be the cause .
If you don't want to throw money at it then your gonna have to test all possible causes to make the right determination . Good Luck !!

my tps voltage was at .60 now its around .98 wot 4.84

loopy · Status: Offline

another ? I heard somewhere that when you use gt 40p heads you should up the fuel pressure and lower the timing a lil. so should i set my fp to 45 vac line off? what would be some good settings?

Mineral 02 · Status: Offline

Judging from the symptoms It could be a bad coil ..... You say it has fuel pressure when it does not start or dies correct ? What do the plugs look like when the symptoms appear ? If they are sooty or carboned ..... it may be sparking , but not well . Try a buddy's coil and see if it clears up . If it is a bad coil you will see a difference as soon as you start it .

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

loopy wrote:

another ? I heard somewhere that when you use gt 40p heads you should up the fuel pressure and lower the timing a lil. so should i set my fp to 45 vac line off? what would be some good settings?

40P's shouldn't have any affect on static timing and fuel pressure settings. The 40P's do bump compression slightly, so the only really change you should make is if you were running 87 octane...than you should start using 89+ octane now to compensate for the CR boost.

No real reason why you can't set to 39psi vac off and 10 degrees BTDC while you trouble shoot this issue. Honestly, playing with the fuel pressure doesn't really do much at idle and part throttle. The O2 sensors constantly monitor the mixture and adjust injector pulse width based on what they are seeing. If you bump pressure, and it's too rich, the car will shorten injector pulse width to compensate. Static pressure only comes into play at WOT when the O2's get ignored (over 3500RPM). But since you are having this issue at startup, i doubt it's a cause.

Run the check engine codes if you haven't and post up any codes you get. If you need the procedure on how to I can post that up. Even if the CEL isn't on. there could be a codes stored that may give us a clue as to what the car doesn't lilke

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Sunday 21st of March 2010 02:39:06 PM

FOXGT93 · Status: Offline

Yeah, sounds like the coil. Have you replaced the fuel filter?

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

loopy wrote:

another ? I heard somewhere that when you use gt 40p heads you should up the fuel pressure and lower the timing a lil. so should i set my fp to 45 vac line off? what would be some good settings?

40P's shouldn't have any affect on static timing and fuel pressure settings. The 40P's do bump compression slightly, so the only really change you should make is if you were running 87 octane...than you should start using 89+ octane now to compensate for the CR boost.

No real reason why you can't set to 39psi vac off and 10 degrees BTDC while you trouble shoot this issue. Honestly, playing with the fuel pressure doesn't really do much at idle and part throttle. The O2 sensors constantly monitor the mixture and adjust injector pulse width based on what they are seeing. If you bump pressure, and it's too rich, the car will shorten injector pulse width to compensate. Static pressure only comes into play at WOT when the O2's get ignored (over 3500RPM). But since you are having this issue at startup, i doubt it's a cause.

Run the check engine codes if you haven't and post up any codes you get. If you need the procedure on how to I can post that up. Even if the CEL isn't on. there could be a codes stored that may give us a clue as to what the car doesn't lilke

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Sunday 21st of March 2010 02:39:06 PM

i will have to borrow a meter from someone my dad knows.
i keep noticing that sometimes when i go to hit the gas she wants to die, id say like 85- 90% she runs great. i drove around all day yesterday with no starting or running problems. then today they came back its like an itch you cant scratch.

loopy · Status: Offline

FOXGT93 wrote:

Yeah, sounds like the coil. Have you replaced the fuel filter?

fuel filter was one of the first things i replaced

FOXGT93 · Status: Offline

I had a very similar issue with my 93gt. When it doesn't start have you tried pumping the gas while it turns over? If it starts when tapping the gas it's probably the coil. Check to see if it's getting a spark. If it is.. sounds like bad fuel. Mine was driving me crazy and after a lot of troubleshooting it did turn out to be the fuel. Ever since I had that problem I have switched to 93 octane and it has never occurred since. That's just my 2 cents.

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

loopy wrote:
i will have to borrow a meter from someone my dad knows.

You can do it with a paper clip. Jumping out the test connector will cause the check engine light to actually blink the codes to you.

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html

See "method 2"

But you can pick up a decent OBD-1 code reader for $20-30...or borrow one like you said

I have a few suspicions on some codes you may get

ALso, you can test the coil. (

Get a digital multimeter, unplug the coil wire and coil plug.

Resistance between pos and new plug termans should be 0.3 - 1.0 ohms

Resistance between coil wire terminal and Pos plug terminal should be 8000-11500 ohms

Resistance between coil wire terminal and negative plug terminal should be 8000-11500 ohms

Resistance from each terminal and the coil case should be infinite

Doesn't garantee a good coil..but it's a good check

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Sunday 21st of March 2010 08:00:55 PM

loopy · Status: Offline

not sure if this helps but it has an accel ignition coil. i always use 93 octane. when i shut it down today it took about 5-8 tries to get it started again

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

loopy wrote:

not sure if this helps but it has an accel ignition coil. i always use 93 octane. when i shut it down today it took about 5-8 tries to get it started again

I run the same coil.

See above. I edited my post with how to test the coil

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

loopy wrote:
i will have to borrow a meter from someone my dad knows.

You can do it with a paper clip. Jumping out the test connector will cause the check engine light to actually blink the codes to you.

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html

See "method 2"

But you can pick up a decent OBD-1 code reader for $20-30...or borrow one like you said

I have a few suspicions on some codes you may get

ALso, you can test the coil. (

Get a digital multimeter, unplug the coil wire and coil plug.

Resistance between pos and new plug termans should be 0.3 - 1.0 ohms

Resistance between coil wire terminal and Pos plug terminal should be 8000-11500 ohms

Resistance between coil wire terminal and negative plug terminal should be 8000-11500 ohms

Resistance from each terminal and the coil case should be infinite

Doesn't garantee a good coil..but it's a good check

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Sunday 21st of March 2010 08:00:55 PM

thanks for the info

loopy · Status: Offline

i have replaced the ignition coil and the car made me wait 20mins before she would start, and still has a miss every now and then. im thinking maybe my fuel pump, im suprised im not bald yet with all this stress

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

Here's how thr FP should behave when you turn the key. Mine is cowl mounted, so I cycled the key today a few times in preparation for taking it out for the spring.

Turn the key to ON (no start). The FP should spike INSTANTLY to 39 psi, with no delay really. It shouldn't struggle. After the pump stops priming, it hangs out there for maybe 3-5 seconds and then begins to slowly drop to 0.

Have a friend cycle the key and watch your FP and see if it does exactly this.

If it does....do you have a friend willing to let you swap distributors for a few hours? If it's ignition related, i'd suspect the TFI and/or the PIP/Hall effect sensor in the dizzy.

These can be tested, i can find the docs if you don't have access to a spare dizzy somewhere.

loopy · Status: Offline

it does not spike instantly turned it on looked under hood it was around25-30 and slowly climbing. today was the first day i started in about a week and the fuel pump wouldnt kick on so i removed the negaitve cable waited a min or so reconected it then the fuel pump primed

Ed · Status: Offline

do a fuel pump i had the same problem with a mustang i had

snakebite · Status: Offline

HAD THE SAME ISSUE WITH MY 86 CAPRI WITH A 93 COBRA MOTOR IN IT IT WAS THE IGNITION CONTROL MODUAL ON THE DISTRIBUTOR TRY IT MIGHT B THE ISSUE

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

loopy wrote:

it does not spike instantly turned it on looked under hood it was around25-30 and slowly climbing. today was the first day i started in about a week and the fuel pump wouldnt kick on so i removed the negaitve cable waited a min or so reconected it then the fuel pump primed

Well in that case, sounds more and more likely it could be the fuel pump. I just hate to say replace it without seeing it for myself as it's a little bit of a PITA to change it out. Make sure you pick up a replacement fill neck gasket from Ford. They always tear. Same as a 2004 GT

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 03:01:18 PM

gixxer1 · Status: Offline

Is this car a factory 5.0 or a 4cyl conv.
i had alot of harness issues with a conv. 5.0 car i had.........also i agree it could be fuel pressure loss somewhere . Check spark and fuel pressure when problem occurs.Start with the basics. A engine needs fuel, spark and comperssion to start. Don't replace anything with out diagnosis first as it could be alot of wasted time and money.

-- Edited by gixxer1 on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 11:08:44 AM

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

There is a possibility it's a faulty fuel regulator as well. Just because it's an aftermarket part...doesn't mean it's not junk.

At least that is easier to replace than a fuel pumo for now...but i'd see if someone has a used one to swap and see if it makes any change. Don't throw parts at it just yet

loopy · Status: Offline

gixxer1 wrote:

Is this car a factory 5.0 or a 4cyl conv.
i had alot of harness issues with a conv. 5.0 car i had.........also i agree it could be fuel pressure loss somewhere . Check spark and fuel pressure when problem occurs.Start with the basics. A engine needs fuel, spark and comperssion to start. Don't replace anything with out diagnosis first as it could be alot of wasted time and money.

-- Edited by gixxer1 on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 11:08:44 AM

4cyl conversion

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

loopy wrote:

it does not spike instantly turned it on looked under hood it was around25-30 and slowly climbing. today was the first day i started in about a week and the fuel pump wouldnt kick on so i removed the negaitve cable waited a min or so reconected it then the fuel pump primed

Well in that case, sounds more and more likely it could be the fuel pump. I just hate to say replace it without seeing it for myself as it's a little bit of a PITA to change it out. Make sure you pick up a replacement fill neck gasket from Ford. They always tear. Same as a 2004 GT

-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 03:01:18 PM

thats why i was thinking fuel pump more and more, yesterday the fuel pump would not come on took of the neg cable for a few mins and turned the key a sec or two later it kicked on its weird.

iwas looking up part numbers for item that were suggested is this what i would need to repair my distributor to solve the starting problem that i get once in a while http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ECHMP711_0065201527&An=599001+101989+50026+2026026

loopy · Status: Offline

went outside this morning had my mom turn the car on and off the fuel pressure instantly went to 39psi a sec or 2 later it dropped to 18-20psi. so now im not sure its the fuel pump

Mustang5L5 · Status: Offline

loopy wrote:
iwas looking up part numbers for item that were suggested is this what i would need to repair my distributor to solve the starting problem that i get once in a while http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ECHMP711_0065201527&An=599001+101989+50026+2026026

I can't see it. Just takes me to the main page. Got a P/N?

loopy · Status: Offline

Mustang5L5 wrote:

loopy wrote:
iwas looking up part numbers for item that were suggested is this what i would need to repair my distributor to solve the starting problem that i get once in a while http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ECHMP711_0065201527&An=599001+101989+50026+2026026

I can't see it. Just takes me to the main page. Got a P/N?

part # ECH MP711