is a mexican block much better than stock im looking for a block for my car im running nitrous so i want it as strong as possable but i dont want to pay 2000 for a dart block ,what is a ready to go mexican block worth and does anyone have one to sell
mexican block is stronger then a stock block theres a thread on corral of a guy using a mexican block and revs it to 9000 so i would say its pretty strong
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CRACK DAT ASS!!!hi ports tfs R box and novi 2000, yea bub
Odd way of looking at it. It's not a question of rpm your turning really,it's the amount of power your producing. Look at the ricers spinning 9000rpm through a production block.
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Odd way of looking at it. It's not a question of rpm your turning really,it's the amount of power your producing. Look at the ricers spinning 9000rpm through a production block.
RPM Plays a large roll in when a block fails. just think of all the extra force from the mass of the pistons hitting TDC 1.5X's as much as a motor that revs to 6k...
OP: what kind of power are you planning on making? I've heard anything over 450rwhp on a stock block is pushing it, and that anywhere over 525rwhp on a Mexican block is pushing... so there's not a real big difference, but it may just be enough.
absolutly a mxican block is worth it ask and real engine builder and they will tell you a mexican block is stronger than a stock block. i mean its no R block or a dart block but yes it is stronger. has a higher nickle content i believe and theres something else about it too but i forget. but it is stronger
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JDangerous IN GOD WE TRUST, ALL OTHERS PAY CASH!!!!!!
the webbing in the lifter valleys casting is thicker the stock block 302s u can gridle the mdo what ever u want the wek point is right in the lifter valley its thin casting, they split ther straight down to center main caps
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1988 LX Notch race car -4.6 dohc ,powerglide ,boost ,cage ,mini tubbed,chute..ect certified to 8.50s ,hoppin low 9s high 8s
The Mexican block has thicker main caps. It is not roller lifter compatible unless link bar roller lifters are used. Those roller lifter conversions using factory parts are junk and require a reduced base circle camshaft to use them.
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337 C.I.D.
390 R.W.H.P.
362 R.W.T.Q
11.44@120 in the 1/4
7.35@ 95 in the 1/8
1.60-60'
N.A.
1988 L.X. Hatch 5.0L 5-Speed, 85,000 original miles
Mexican blocks are stronger but I don't know if they are worth the extra money they go for on average if you don't get a deal. I feel a used A4 block is a better average price vs. strength deal than a used Mexican block.
This may not be an answer to your question , but another cheap alternative would be to use a modular engine . Modular blocks will take alot more abuse than the old 5.0 blocks by far . Ive never heard of anyone splitting one and with just an internal upgrade to forged peices .... people are pushing these things to 1,000 horse and beyond with out block failure ! Just an FYI .... all cobra blocks from 96 to 01 were aluminum ... that means light and strong !!! Plus you would have something different and powerfull ... Just a suggestion .
another route im doing is a 351 windsor based motor im doing a 408 but you can get a roller block for pretty cheap i think i saw one on craigslist for 250$ bored and painted ready to go
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1988 LX Notch race car -4.6 dohc ,powerglide ,boost ,cage ,mini tubbed,chute..ect certified to 8.50s ,hoppin low 9s high 8s
The mexican block is thicker in the mains and the lifter valley. I used one with my street/strip car (blown 347) for about 5 years and sold the motor to a friend for his daily driver stang. the only thing about it is that you would have to machine it for the lifter bars and hold down or run a flat tappet and change your distributor gear. They are a good block for a lil more power then a stocker but either way you are going to spend time and money. Buy it, girdle it and call it a day. Plus then we can call you "the mexican".lol