ok I just spent the last 2 days completely converting a 91 convertible 4 cylinder auto to an 88 5.0 with 5spd.
my question is the pink with black wire for the fuel pump is not getting power to turn the pump on. I can manually put power to that wire with my power probe and the car runs. I know the 4cylinder harness for the pump the pink and black go to the pump and to a diode to ground. The 88 harness just goes to the pump with no diode.
Should I just cut the diode out and run a wire from the pump to the relay on the pink and black side. and then cut the ground at the pump and run that striaght to a body ground and eliminate the diode?????
I think I am on the right track with what I want to do to get it to run but any answers will help because I am finishing the car tonight. Thanks Jay
when i did my 4 cyl conversion i just ran the pink and black wire to my fuse box so it would turn on when my key turns on with a toggle in the glove box for security measures or if i needed the pump off for diagnosis with the key on
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1993 cobra #2354 ( 1 of 362) ...04 lariat f350 crew cab diesal dually full 09 conversion...79 bronco 6.0 diesel conversion..more to come
[QUOTE]The following assumes thaty you are going EFI.
Fuel Pump Troubleshooting for 86-90 Mustangs
Clue listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground.
If the fuse links are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. A tire pressure gauge can also be used if you have one - look for 37-40 PSI. Beware of fire hazard when you do this.
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability: A.) Tripped inertia switch press reset button on the inertia switch. The hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay located under the drivers seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. C.) Clogged fuel filter D.) Failed fuel pump E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. All the applicable fuse links are in the wiring harness up next to the starter solenoid. F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running. If you find fuel escaping, the regulator has failed.
Theory of operation: The electrical circuit for the fuel pump has two paths, a control path and a power path.
Control path: The control path consists of the inertia switch, the computer, and the fuel pump relay coil. It turns the fuel pump relay on or off under computer control. The switched power (red wire) from the ECC relay goes to the inertia switch (red/black wire) then from the inertia switch to the relay coil and then from the relay coil to the computer (tan/ Lt green wire). The computer provides the ground path to complete the circuit. This ground causes the relay coil to energize and close the contacts for the power path. Keep in mind that you can have voltage to all the right places, but the computer must provide a ground. If there is no ground, the relay will not close the power contacts.
Power path: The power path picks up from a fuse link near the starter relay. Fuse links are like fuses, except they are pieces of wire and are made right into the wiring harness. The feed wire from the fuse link (orange/ light blue wire) goes to the fuel pump relay contacts. When the contacts close because the relay energizes, the power flows through the contacts to the fuel pump (light pink/black wire). The fuel pump has a black wire that supplies the ground to complete the circuit.
[B]Remember that the computer does not source any power to actuators, relays or injectors, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.[/B]
Now that you have the theory of how it works, its time to go digging.
Power circuits: Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt. Blue wire (power source for fuel pump relay). No voltage or low voltage, bad fuse link, bad wiring, bad ignition switch or ignition switch wiring or connections. There is a mystery connector somewhere under the drivers side kick panel, between the fuel pump relay and the fuse link.
Turn on the key and jumper the fuel pump test connector to ground as previously described. Look for 12 volts at the Light Pink/Black wire (relay controlled power for the fuel pump). No voltage there means that the relay has failed, or there is a broken wire in the relay control circuit.
Check the Red/black wire, it should have 12 volts. No 12 volts there, either the inertia switch is open or has no power to it. Check both sides of the inertia switch: there should be power on the Red wire and Red/Black wire. Power on the Red wire and not on the Red/Black wire means the inertia switch is open.
Pump wiring: Anytime the ignition switch is in the Run position and the test point is jumpered to ground, there should be at least 12 volts present on the black/pink wire. With power off, check the pump ground: you should see less than 1 ohm between the black wire and chassis ground.
Control circuits: The Tan/Lt Green wire provides a ground path for the relay power. With the test connector jumpered to ground, there should be less than .75 volts. Use a test lamp with one side connected to battery power and the other side to the Tan/Lt Green wire. The test light should glow brightly. No glow and you have a broken wire or bad connection between the test connector and the relay. To test the wiring from the computer, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. It has a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. With the test lamp connected to power, jumper pin 22 to ground and the test lamp should glow. No glow and the wiring between the computer and the fuel pump relay is bad.
If all of the checks have worked OK to this point, then the computer is bad. The computers are very reliable and not prone to failure unless there has been significant electrical trauma to the car. Things like lightning strikes and putting the battery in backwards or connecting jumper cables backwards are about the only thing that kills the computer.
Fuel pump runs continuously: The tan/ltgreen wire has shorted to ground. Disconnect the computer and use an ohmmeter to check out the resistance between the light blue/orange wire and ground. You should see more than 10 K Ohms (10,000 ohms) or an infinite open circuit. Be sure that the test connector isnt jumpered to ground.[/QUOTE]
yeah when i did a 4cyl conversion i ran into the same problem i did the same thing that snakebit did. I ran i toggle switch and never had a problem after that. But in my opinion that was the hack way but i just wanted the damn thing to run, good luck with figuring it out.