Stock block 302 with Novi 2000. Just swapped from E7's & E cam to Trick Flows & F cam. Car idles fine but at about 2 minutes into drive after car started cold, will start popping/sputtering like bananas in tailpipes and has almost no power.Does this for approx 2 minutes & then clears up. Also HEAVY popping through exhaust on DECELL which is continuous. I've triple checked wiring,vacuum lines,gounds,firing order, etc. Car makes great power when it's running right. Just a recap, only things changed were heads & cam. Runs like ass approx 2 minutes into drive for bout 2 mins.Almost feels like all cylinders misfring at once, then clears out. Heavy, almost severe popping through exhaust on decell. No check engine light.Reused Autolite 3924's gapped at .030. I used a whole can of carb cleaner today looking for a vacuum leak, nothing. Also wiggled every wiring harness in engine compartment,cleaned " salt & pepper" plugs,checked/cleaned engine grounds,set timing from 8-14* with no change in drivabilty. It's gonna be about a week before I can get to a buddy's shop to scan for codes but this is driving me nuts....I ready for suggestions.
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I think I may have found it. I by-passed my Crane ignition box,went for a road test and it was 90% better. Upon further investigation I found some substantial corrosion in plug from ignition box to "coil" plug. I spent a little bit cleaning/scraping out all the connectors, used some electronic connection cleaner & I'll let it dry out overnight. I'll reassemble & rd test tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed.
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
ive got that same problem with my tires....except my car still runs like shit....lol 13.9 tho on wires melted to the header and a rocker arm that fell off
I don't know if you checked the distributor cap yet. But look inside it and make sure it is not cracked. Look for carbon traces that look like little black lines. I had a cracked cap in my brothers car last summer and it drove me crazy. If you changed the cap just dis-regard this post.
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337 C.I.D.
390 R.W.H.P.
362 R.W.T.Q
11.44@120 in the 1/4
7.35@ 95 in the 1/8
1.60-60'
N.A.
1988 L.X. Hatch 5.0L 5-Speed, 85,000 original miles
Good idea, even though has new MSD cap & rotor with less than 500 miles on it I eyeballed the shit out of it cuz I swear it's ignition related but cap/rotor looks like new. No condensation,carbon tracking, nothing.I even sprayed a little WD-40 in it for shit's & giggles. Still runs like ass for approx 1-2 minutes, then clears out. :(
__________________
Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Runs like ass approx 2 minutes into drive for bout 2 mins.Almost feels like all cylinders misfring at once, then clears out. Heavy, almost severe popping through exhaust on decell. No check engine light.Reused Autolite 3924's gapped at .030.
Plug on the left is Autolite 3924 required for Trick Flow heads. .750" reach Plug on the right is Autolite 24 with .460" reach some shithead installed. To be continued....
__________________
Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Question ???? Are those plugs that trick flow recomended a colder heatrange than the ones used in a naturaly asperated application ? I'm not sure but I'll check ... anyway I used NGK TR6 plugs for my blower application . I'm wondering if these would work for you to . I will call DEZ and get back to ya !!
thats probly whats goin on, i did the same thing in my red car, then i actuly read the directions to the heads, and it said to use a 3924 autolite or a rn12yc champion for the edelbrock heads, i guess 3924s are a pretty universal plug when it comes to aftermarket alum heads, needless to say, it cured my problem. good luck man
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337 C.I.D.
390 R.W.H.P.
362 R.W.T.Q
11.44@120 in the 1/4
7.35@ 95 in the 1/8
1.60-60'
N.A.
1988 L.X. Hatch 5.0L 5-Speed, 85,000 original miles
Plug on the left is Autolite 3924 required for Trick Flow heads. .750" reach
