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Post Info TOPIC: Quite possibly may lose my mind


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Quite possibly may lose my mind


Stock block 302 with Novi 2000. Just swapped from E7's & E cam to Trick Flows & F cam. Car idles fine but at about 2 minutes into drive after car started cold, will start popping/sputtering like bananas in tailpipes and has almost no power.Does this for approx 2 minutes & then clears up. Also HEAVY popping through exhaust on DECELL which is continuous. I've triple checked wiring,vacuum lines,gounds,firing order, etc. Car makes great power when it's running right. Just a recap, only things changed were heads & cam. Runs like ass approx 2 minutes into drive for bout 2 mins.Almost feels like all cylinders misfring at once, then clears out. Heavy, almost severe popping through exhaust on decell. No check engine light.Reused Autolite 3924's gapped at
.030. I used a whole can of carb cleaner today looking for a vacuum leak, nothing. Also wiggled every wiring harness in engine compartment,cleaned " salt & pepper" plugs,checked/cleaned engine grounds,set timing from 8-14* with no change in drivabilty. It's gonna be about a week before I can get to a buddy's shop to scan for codes but this is driving me nuts....I ready for suggestions.angry4

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I think I may have found it. I by-passed my Crane ignition box,went for a road test and it was 90% better. Upon further investigation I found some substantial corrosion in plug from ignition box to "coil" plug. I spent a little bit cleaning/scraping out all the connectors, used some electronic connection cleaner & I'll let it dry out overnight. I'll reassemble & rd test tomorrow.
Keep your fingers crossed.

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use some connector grease

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i can bring a scan tool to you if you need be sometimes the pre obd 2 cars store codes with no light

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Problem solved, I drove it today with no issues except smoke from rear tires.
holeshot

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ive got that same problem with my tires....except my car still runs like shit....lol 13.9 tho on wires melted to the header and a rocker arm that fell off

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nice rob!!!!! bad wire huh!!

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Get it to the DYNO !!! .... We need rwhp #'s... A.S.A.P !! joint

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Was fine for a couple days and now the gremlins are back.

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gotta love those intermittent ignition problems huh

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qwik88 wrote:

gotta love those intermittent ignition problems huh





LOL

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that sux man!!! it sounded like ass when u got on the highway

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bad ignition module or pick up? just had to replace mine

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I'm gonna try a wire set,then maybe a coil.

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diganoising problems with new parts sucks....i have to do it all the time on pre obd2 cars:(

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Props to Mike Heath, drove up from Plymouth to let me try new set of plug wires. Didn't help but wanted to thank him again.

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I don't know if you checked the distributor cap yet. But look inside it and make sure it is not cracked. Look for carbon traces that look like little black lines. I had a cracked cap in my brothers car last summer and it drove me crazy. If you changed the cap just dis-regard this post.

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337 C.I.D. 390 R.W.H.P. 362 R.W.T.Q 11.44@120 in the 1/4 7.35@ 95 in the 1/8 1.60-60' N.A. 1988 L.X. Hatch 5.0L 5-Speed, 85,000 original miles


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Good idea, even though has new MSD cap & rotor with less than 500 miles on it I eyeballed the shit out of it cuz I swear it's ignition related but cap/rotor looks like new. No condensation,carbon tracking, nothing.I even sprayed a little WD-40 in it for shit's & giggles. Still runs like ass for approx 1-2 minutes, then clears out. :(

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93_REEF_NOTCH wrote:

Runs like ass approx 2 minutes into drive for bout 2 mins.Almost feels like all cylinders misfring at once, then clears out. Heavy, almost severe popping through exhaust on decell. No check engine light.Reused Autolite 3924's gapped at .030.




hmm.gif Plug on the left is Autolite 3924 required for Trick Flow heads. .750" reach
Plug on the right is Autolite 24 with .460" reach some shithead installed. To be continued....


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no.gif

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that could present a small problem, glad u tracked it down.

-- Edited by Geevaaa9112 at 21:30, 2008-04-25

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i guess it was 1 to many coronas that day huh

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did you put them plugs in?....we were just talking about what plugs are correct to run on my heads the other night

-- Edited by mikefheath87 at 00:43, 2008-04-26

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Question ???? Are those plugs that trick flow recomended a colder heatrange than the ones used in a naturaly asperated application ? I'm not sure but I'll check ... anyway I used NGK TR6 plugs for my blower application . I'm wondering if these would work for you to . I will call DEZ and get back to ya !!

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2002 GT " SOLD " !!!


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Update .... Just talked to DEZ and he recomended autolite 3923 gapped at .035 " with your set up . Good luck Buddy !!

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2002 GT " SOLD " !!!


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Thanks for the info Scott, I'll pick up a set of 3923's & keep them on the shelf for dyno/track time. I have my 3924's at .035.

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thats probly whats goin on, i did the same thing in my red car, then i actuly read the directions to the heads, and it said to use a 3924 autolite or a rn12yc champion for the edelbrock heads, i guess 3924s are a pretty universal plug when it comes to aftermarket alum heads, needless to say, it cured my problem. good luck man

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