So i went to put on my 17x10.5 rear wheels just to see how far they would stick out but they're like not even a 1/4 inch about to hit my sway bar (i belive its called) an NO WAY a tire's gna beable to fit in between.....is there any way out of this or any mod i can do??
__________________
Let me know if you have any atv's or dirtbikes for sale, i'll most likely buy it.
A lot of guys run a wheel spacer. I use 3/8" spacers and longer wheel studsfor my 17x10.5, but I have IRS. I need the spacer to clear the IRS bolt that gets in the way. Maybe you have the wrong offset. Remember your axles aren't shorter than a 99+ mustang and longer than 93 and older. If you got sent the wrong rims that could be your problem.
One thing with spacers is you don't want to go too big or you can have issues.
on a low pro tire it doesnt have to be any wider than the wheel and tubular control arms are smaller than stock ones so you have alittle more room because of that i wouldnt worry about it just dont run a monster tire and get some control arms your car will look sick just get it done lol
i just put the wheel on again an looked at it, if the 315-35-17 is EXACTLY 12 inches i'm gd. but the wheel wells not gna be more than a hair away lol...
__________________
Let me know if you have any atv's or dirtbikes for sale, i'll most likely buy it.
those wheels are also 11 inch, although they're made specificallly for that body car. by the way john, those wheels are pretty damn rare. i wouldn't let them go too cheap...
oh and no jonny, i have a 315/35/17
-- Edited by Green92LX on Wednesday 10th of February 2010 10:16:28 PM
I have Maximum Motorsport lower arms and brand new steeda upper arms and I still have wheelhop. Whether you have hop or not all depends on a number of factors.
A pair of quad shocks from Ford cost $100/pair now. Gonna have to pony up :(
mustang 5l5 i dont know if it will fix your problem but ive seen cars that the control arm bolts are cranked down with a impact gun with the rear dangeling on a lift and it preloads the arms so they all ways hop tryloosing them and tighting them on a drive on lift
Alrite my plan's to ditch the quad shocks an get a set of 315/35/17's...An as for wheel hop, i've read that Lowered cars don't hop because the LCA geometry is changed
__________________
Let me know if you have any atv's or dirtbikes for sale, i'll most likely buy it.
i just put the wheel on again an looked at it, if the 315-35-17 is EXACTLY 12 inches i'm gd. but the wheel wells not gna be more than a hair away lol...
__________________
Let me know if you have any atv's or dirtbikes for sale, i'll most likely buy it.
I installed my LCA's on the ground at ride height and hand torqued them. I am also lowered as these are MM adjustable A-arms. Paid $500 for the suckers so i could jack the rear of the car up to run a taller tire at the track and then lower it back down on the street. (BTW MM arms are awesome quality)
I also installed new shocks, new springs, new bushings on the axles, new isolaters, checked pinion angle, still got the hoppity hop., quads are going back on. Even if i didn't have wheel-hop, I'd put them back on. My opinion it doesn't hurt anything to leave them on there...so why ditch them needlessly? Aparently, my car needs them on.
Everyone's cars is gonna be different, but I wouldn't be so quick to say ditch the quads when you get LCA's. I have come across plenty of other guys with aftermarket LCA's who had wheel hop after ditching the quads....and I've also seen plenty of guys who have ditched them without issue.
-- Edited by Mustang5L5 on Thursday 11th of February 2010 10:07:26 PM
