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stang1990 wrote:

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How hard is it and what do I need to convert it.1990 lx 5.0 if you need to know that.

is for my father in law he wants to convert his efi to carb what can i do and what intake and carb to i need, i know some off you like efi but is not my stang im keeping mine efi so can anybody help thanks.

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...., get a intake, dual plan, edelbrocks airgap intake is the best on the market if u ask me, get a distributor from 84-85 5.0 car, i actuly have a brand new one if ur interested. get a msd ignition, 6al would be fine. a carburator, edelbrock part number 1406 600cfm elec choke is a really nice street carb and offers nice performance and no hassle tuning, take it out of the box and go, basicly just wire up the msd with the new distributor and it shuld be ready to run, then comes the fuel system, if he wants to run a mechanicl pump,ur gonna need to get a timing cover that accepts a mech pump, u need to get a gas tank pick up form a older carbed car drop it in and run ur lines accordingly, the stock 5/16 line shuld be ok, but 3/8 wuld be better, if he wants to go electric get the same tank pick up and put the pump as close to the tank as possible, dont cut any wires or take anything out till u get the car started. ive done this swap numerous times and its really straight foward, after u get it running, rip out the computer and follow the wiring harness and remove your old harness, if the computer is a a9l u shuld be able to get some good money for it, if u have any more questions let me know, remeber , do not run ur carb with the efi fuel pump, it puts out about 60psi and a carb only needs 4-5psi of fuel pressure to run, ull ruin the carb. holley makes a bypass regulator to make 60psi come down to 7-10psi, i think there junk but u can read up on then make ur decision i think the part number for the reg is 1208bp or something good luck

hey big frank how much for the distributor

i did this to my car, invest in a test light, i have some extras hooked up that i needed a 12v switched source for (ie electric fuel pump) and i just took power from already switched source that had gone to the computer, instead of new wires it looks nicer.......im pretty sure you will need to run your own wires for the alternator as well, i cant remember if it the wires from that are on the same harness as the computer???

I don't know the part number. Summit and jegs sells them. It is actually a 4-port regulator with a return port. Costs somewhere around a $100.00. It is adjustable and also boost referenced if going to the blower route or turbo route. I did this on my car 12 years ago. I run the stock 88 lph pump going up to the factory fuel filter and lines. After the fuel filter I increased the line size to 3/8" going to the the Mallory regulator mounted on the firewall. I have a 5/16" return line going out of the bottom of the regulator back to the tank in the stock location. This return line was my original feed line. I wired up my pump set-up to a oil pressure switch on the engine and the rest of the harness is stock and still uses the factory fuel injection inertia switch in the back of the hatch. My car was originally a Automatic AOD Car with a C.F.I. injected set-up in it. I just reused what was there to make the carbed set-up work. The factory 88 LPH pump works fine for me as all it has to do is keep the float bowls full in my Carb. I wired up the system to the oil pressure switch in-case I ever got into an accident and the motor died the fuel pump would shut off automatically. I know the line size I used could be better going from a 5/16 line to a 3/8 line kind of made me frown at the time. But it got me by. It should be 3/8 right out of the pump and all the way up. but at the time I kind of figured it would work for a while. It has worked well. It even fed my old dual quad set-up. for years. Some day when I put a bigger motor in the car I will redo my whole fuel system.