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Post Info TOPIC: Crate Motor or build your own?


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Crate Motor or build your own?


Ive just been looking around online...been looking at what it would take to build a complete motor vs. a crate motor...wondering what you guys think is more worthwhile...obviously a crate motor is easy...drop it in good to go...but i think for the $ spent on a crate motor i could build something that would have more power than somethin just bought and put in...and obviously this is something that i wont be doing probly till the winter...need time to save up...but this winter id like to buy/build something for next summer...

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crate u get a warranty
build u fuck up u own it!!!

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peace, love and go fuck yourself!!!!! \m/ (-_-) \m/


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yeh but a crate motor probly costs more and get less power

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get license


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R.I.P. CORONA Create your own banner at mybannermaker.com!
yesterday is history tomorrow is a mystery


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wheels wrote:

get license







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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.


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^^nothin new lol...obviously im not gonna be spending money like that until im on the road...my plan is to do this over the winter and have it for next summer

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Crate shortblocks actually seem cheaper to me nowadays.

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91 Notch 70mm BBK, 76mm C&L, FMS 3.73's, Rear Control arms, Cobra R's, BBK headers, O/R H pipe,Flowmasters, Subframes, Jamex springs, MM camber plates, Underdrives 94 Bronco, 5.8 , Dual exhaust with 40 series, 6 inch skyjacker, 4.56's


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omfg DEFINATELY build your own...Crate motors either suck ass for power or they are way too expensive for what they are. End of story.

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well i saw a Keith Craft 331 shortblock for $1300...that seems like a descent price...then a set of AFRs...bigger carb and victor jr intake maybe


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Well yeah that is a decent price for that but as far as complete crate motors, not worth it imo

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Yea I agree that the complete ones are a little overpriced but the shortblocks are not a bad deal at all

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91 Notch 70mm BBK, 76mm C&L, FMS 3.73's, Rear Control arms, Cobra R's, BBK headers, O/R H pipe,Flowmasters, Subframes, Jamex springs, MM camber plates, Underdrives 94 Bronco, 5.8 , Dual exhaust with 40 series, 6 inch skyjacker, 4.56's


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dss has a nice motor

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-Yucky Beaver Racing-


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Ive noticed that the one shop that noone seems to have much of a problem with is Coastal high performance, They are slightly more exspensive than the others but seem to be worth it.

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91 Notch 70mm BBK, 76mm C&L, FMS 3.73's, Rear Control arms, Cobra R's, BBK headers, O/R H pipe,Flowmasters, Subframes, Jamex springs, MM camber plates, Underdrives 94 Bronco, 5.8 , Dual exhaust with 40 series, 6 inch skyjacker, 4.56's


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Definitely build your own instead of buying a crate motor. Too many people get caught up in the HP/TQ numbers of crate engines and "hype" those numbers to anyone who'll listen. I once was at a show and a guy was bragging about his new 300 hp 302 crate motor from Ford. Oh, he was talking about the power, the numbers, you name it. Two weeks later, I overheard him saying how disappointed he was with it. Apparently, he had taken it to the dyno and it made something like 236 rear wheel horsepower. For what he paid, he probably could have had one built that produced more power.

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1979 Mustang Cobra 1989 Mustang LX


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Hissing Cobra wrote:

Definitely build your own instead of buying a crate motor. Too many people get caught up in the HP/TQ numbers of crate engines and "hype" those numbers to anyone who'll listen. I once was at a show and a guy was bragging about his new 300 hp 302 crate motor from Ford. Oh, he was talking about the power, the numbers, you name it. Two weeks later, I overheard him saying how disappointed he was with it. Apparently, he had taken it to the dyno and it made something like 236 rear wheel horsepower. For what he paid, he probably could have had one built that produced more power.




If it was an auto then he wasn't to far off . A stick car is around a 12% drive line power loss and an auto is around 18% . So doing the math on my handy dandy calculator .... if it was an auto .. 300 flywheel x 18% = 54 lost horse and comes out to 246 rwhp . There are alot of reasons why someone might not see the advertised numbers they were promised . Exhaust , ignition , fuel system , tuning, Weather , altitude and so on .
I do agree with you though about doing it yourself .... but only if you really know what your doing . Like how much cam to use , what intake and head combo, making sure there will be no piston to valve interfearence and so much more ... At least with a crate motor the guess work is taken out of the equation . Plus some builders will even give you a warranty .

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2002 GT " SOLD " !!!


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I did alot of research after I dyno'd my 440 Dart re: driveline loss. Scott is in the ballpark but on back to back tests with 2 different engines on engine & chassis dyno's saw 15-17% for manual transmissions and 20-25% for automatics.

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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.


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93_REEF_NOTCH wrote:

I did alot of research after I dyno'd my 440 Dart re: driveline loss. Scott is in the ballpark but on back to back tests with 2 different engines on engine & chassis dyno's saw 15-17% for manual transmissions and 20-25% for automatics.




Thats because it was a Mopar !! kick Ford's are more efficient ! holeshot

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2002 GT " SOLD " !!!


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I'd say build one if you're sure you're not going to fuck it up smile.gif IMO crate motors are good for ease and warrenty, IF you're not worried about the warrenty part 90% of the time its far more cost effective to build your own, plus you get the pride in being able to say you built your own vs just throwing a crate in there. If you go for crate I agree w/ everyone else, the shortblocks are the best deal.

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