My car does not look like this now is is in a thousand pieces with bondo all over it and its all sanded and it will be red fire metallic in a few weeks
1st pic is the inside the day i bought it
2nd pic the inside after like a month
3rd pic me and my baby of course lol
4th pic my guage setup
5th pic my MSD mount
6th pic my motor a week after i bought it with my new TB
7th pic a side view of the old paint
8th pic my new MAC 3 inch rolled tips
ok my mods are
MAC shorty headers
2.5 inch MAC offroad H
2.5 to 3 inch MAC catback
Hurst short shifter
autometers
70mm professional products polished TB
73mm C&L MAF
Anderson Power pipe (not in pics)
MSD ignition and coil
white face guages
and im going up to a 75mm TB with my new street heat and bigger MAF
im buying the $400 5-lug swap soon to mount my 03 rims
and buying some corbeau GTS II for it i have a strut brace on order and clear headlights for my new paint.
i want to try and get you paint progress pics but its hard without a digital camera
Those are one of the few that will clear. Try putting a 99 or 03 rim to see if it fits... if you can get a hold of one.
I ran into this problem as I only wanted to run the 99-01 cobra wheel. The rotor hat was too big and the wheel wouldn't mount up. I had to grind the rotor hat down and then it worked, but I had center cap clearance issues.
I ended up getting too frustrated and sold the whole set up and started piecing together my sn95/cobra brake swap....... I had no idea what I was getting into!!!!
Yes. You need the 94/95 spindles, then a compatable rotor/caliper IF you want to run a bullet wheel, 99/01 cobra, 03 cobra.... Go to www.corral.net and look in the suspension parts classifieds. Only a few 5 lug wheels will match that $400 conversion rotor.
Now if you want to do all wheel disc, you will need to change the booster/MC...
I did this swap and learned ALOT in the process, so let me know if you have any questions. And ask alot of questions before you tackle this project...
ya pat i ran into the same problem w. my bullits on my red car....instead of grinding the rotor, grab a set of gorilla perf. 5/16 wheel spacers and longer studs, it saves alot of work and headaches cuz u wont find the studs at any store in stock....id keep ur 95 cobras, there the smoothest wheels around, i had em on my last car and i fuckin loved em, wish i didnt sell them
__________________
"Nothing says "I LOVE YOU HONEY" like a smack across the dome with a camshaft"
-G.M.
thats what im thinking frank! no one really runs the 95 cobras. i think they look horrible on the 94+ but mint on a fox. i just put 500 bucks worth of rubber around the cobras, so theyre definatly here to stay for a while!
I agree that the 95 cobras are niiiiice. Especially on an 87-93 LX. I would stick with that wheel and only do the other brake swap if you want a different wheel or "need" that excessive stopping power...
OK. Lets start with what wheels you want to run???
If you are running a 9" wheel, then make sure you get the stock length axles for the rear... (you can get them from a Ranger)
If you are running an 8" wheel, then I would suggest using a SN95 axles to increase the track width. (this is what I am using) You may need to have your fenders rolled eventually when all is said and done.
For the fronts, you need the 94/95 spindles to maintain the stock track width, OR if running a 8" wheel (like the 99 cobra that I have) then I would recommend using the 96 spindles w/ an increase track width. (i should've done this, and may in the near future).
This is copied from the website above: Parts needed
'94-95 spindles from a V6, GT or Cobra. They are all the same. Left and Right side. These will keep the stock front track. You can use the '96+ newer units, but the track will increase 8mm per side.
2 hubs. These come in ABS and non-ABS units. Either one will work. If you need a new ones, contact PPI for the best price on them.
2 hub nuts to spindle
2 dust caps
4 spindle to caliper mounting bolts (same bolts on all 94-present mustangs)
0.330" tall spacer, 5/8" inside diameter , 1.5" outside diameter (or a stack of washers totaling 0.330"). This is needed to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint (the fox ball joint is about 1/2 taller than the SN95s and you will run out of threads, pic). If you are buying new tubular A arms, get them with the SN95 ball joints. Here are pics of a homemade one: [pic 1] [pic 2]
calipers and rotors -- see part 3.2 to help on this decision!
If your car is lowered, plan on offset rack bushings or a bumpsteer kit with the '94-95 spindles, measure on the '96+ modular units.
i think im gonna stay 4-lug w. my notch just cuz i already have cobra's for it and plan on buyin draglites if i can find some cheap, the only reason i did 5-lug on my other cars is cuz i got the bullits w. rubber for 200$ out of a junk yard and they were mint, and my 89 was so nice and i got the 94 cobras for cheap as welll...if u wanna do a regular 5-lug i can get u the rotors from my work for cheap....and get a set of axles off of summit..then your golden....get moser, they handle 1200hp so ull most likley never need another set of axles again
__________________
"Nothing says "I LOVE YOU HONEY" like a smack across the dome with a camshaft"
-G.M.
i foget exactly how much they are but i think there like 40 a piece....there off a 89-90 lincoln mark 7 i can get them next day, thats all u need ......unless u have the sn95 spindle set up, im not shure tho, watk ind of front brakes do u have
__________________
"Nothing says "I LOVE YOU HONEY" like a smack across the dome with a camshaft"
-G.M.